How to use your touch-up marker
Surface preparation decides the result. If wax, dust or grease is left on the panel, the paint will not lay evenly and the repair will show. Read all the sections before you start.
Preparation
The repair will only be as good as the surface you apply it to. Wax, dust and road grime will stop fresh paint from bonding, so a thorough clean is non-negotiable.
Alcohol wipes are included with the marker. Use those, or spray degreaser or isopropyl alcohol onto a clean microfibre cloth — never directly onto the damage.
Wipe the chip and a generous area around it. The surface must be completely free of wax, polish, dirt and grease before any paint goes down.
Work in shade with the body panel cool to the touch. Hot paint and direct sun cause the marker's paint to flash off too fast and leave a dull, uneven film.
Never squeeze or pull the needle itself — only the body of the marker. The needle is the most fragile part and bends with very little force.
Fine chips — the needle tip
The precision needle is built for stone chips and pinpoint scratches — anywhere a brush would put down too much paint.
Shake the marker vigorously for at least 30 seconds. The pigment settles between uses and an under-mixed marker leaves a flat, off-shade finish.
Peel off the small transparent cap to expose the needle. Squeeze the body gently, without turning the marker upside down, and you can start filling the damage.
Always clean the needle before using the marker again.
Larger damage — the internal brush
For anything bigger than a grain of rice, switch to the internal brush hidden under the screw cap. It releases more paint per pass and covers area without flooding it.
Fully unscrew the transparent cap to reveal the brush applicator. Wipe any excess paint against the inside lip of the marker so you don't load the brush too heavily.
Apply thin layers and build up gradually. Two or three light passes always look better than one thick glob.
Cover the damage with the brush without going over the undamaged paint.
Drying & finish
The whole job can be done in as little as 15 minutes. Initial drying is 15–30 minutes; full curing is about 24 hours depending on temperature and layer thickness.
Let the paint dry completely between coats — touch a hidden spot first to confirm it is no longer tacky.
Wipe the tip clean and store the marker upright in a cool, dark place with both caps fully closed. Stored properly, it stays usable for future touch-ups on the same car.
Tip: you don't need a garage or a body shop — the repair can be done anywhere.
Common questions
Will the colour match my car exactly?
Yes. The paint is mixed to your car manufacturer's colour code, so the shade matches the factory original. One caveat: on sun-faded clear coat the difference can show across a large panel. On chips and scratches it is effectively invisible.
Where do I find my car's paint code?
Usually on the manufacturer's plate: in the engine bay, on the driver's door pillar, inside the boot lid, or under the boot floor. The location differs by brand. If the code is unreadable, send us a photo of the plate and we will find it for you.
What damage can this repair?
Stone chips, fine scratches, scuffs and small areas of paint damage. It will not fix deep scratches running tens of centimetres to bare metal, or dented panels — that needs a body shop.
Do I need primer and clear coat?
Primer is only needed where the damage reaches bare metal or plastic. Clear coat is optional but restores factory gloss and protects the colour from UV, so we recommend it on visible panels such as the bonnet, doors and wings.
How long does the paint take to dry?
Touch-dry in 15 to 30 minutes, full cure in about 24 hours. Do not wash, polish or pressure-wash the car during that time. Work between +10 °C and +25 °C, dry and out of direct sun.
Ready to make your chip disappear?
Tell us your make, model and year — we'll ship your factory-matched marker from Riga.